Master class on point painting Point to point: Construction of tulle lace. Master class on dot painting Point to point: Construction of tulle lace Imitation of Vologda lace in dot painting

• patterns for cross-stitch or mosaic weaving with beads;
• beautiful patterns on fabrics (neck scarves in oriental, Moroccan or African style, imitation of the color of various animals, floral motifs, etc.);
• crocheted openwork napkins, or patterns for knitting them;
• ethnic ornaments and patterns printed in a suitable size on paper (you can use books on traditions and ethnic embroidery;
• paper napkins or decoupage cards.

Inspiration in the search for patterns and ornaments can be found in cultures different peoples: oriental mosques are famous for their floral ornaments, in cathedrals you can borrow patterns from stained glass roses. Many useful information and schemes can be found in different books on the history and construction of an ornament among different peoples.

Dot painting with contours: ready-made schemes and stencils

Depending on the shape and size of the object, it is worth choosing a pattern. The simplest in execution and universal in purpose are simple geometric shapes. If you've never done dot painting before, start by drawing circles on a flat, rectangular surface like a passport cover or cell phone case. Composing an ornament from simple shapes - circles, triangles, squares and lines of different colors, you can achieve very interesting results. To achieve the maximum effect, you just need to choose the right colors for the contours.

More complex circular and linear ornaments. To perform them, the surface of the product must first be prepared - apply barely noticeable marking lines with a pencil. If the work is to be done on a transparent glass surface, you can fix the sketch of the drawing on the reverse side with adhesive tape.

A large number of drawing schemes for dot painting can be found on the Internet. Here are just a few options for different items:

For plates (most round ornaments, mandalas for coloring, etc. will do):

Oriental patterns (one of the most popular options is Indian paisley cucumber in various combinations):

For glasses and bottles (light airy ornaments in the form of curls, or “seamless” linear patterns)

For various accessories (glass cases, pencil cases, pouches mobile phones, wallets and business card holders):

Working with diagrams

If the selected scheme is countable (for cross-stitch or beadwork), then it is necessary to mark the main axes (horizontal, vertical, center of the pattern) on the surface of the product with a special pencil for glass. And start working, starting from these guidelines. It is better to start drawing vertical and horizontal ornaments from the top line, from the central point to the sides - this way you will be able to maintain symmetry and follow the pattern. Round or figured motifs are best displayed from the center of the picture to the sides, filling with sectors.

If any non-countable pattern (fabric, paper, plastic) is used in the form of a diagram, then it is very convenient to fix it under the surface to be treated. Masking tape works well for this. Further, using the transparency of the glass, it is enough to circle the main contours with a thin line of paint (you can also use a special pencil). When choosing a color for a stroke, think about whether it will turn out to be too contrasting and catchy, whether the fill points can cover it. After the sketch is dry, you can start filling in the elements with dots.

It is important to let each color and row of dots dry, otherwise the drawing may be smeared or merge into untidy blots. In this way, you can transfer the pattern to flat plates or photo frames, and to more complex objects (vases, glasses, etc.). In the second case, the selected scheme is placed and fixed inside the vessel.

To work in the technique of dot painting, a special paint is used - acrylic contours. The contour differs from ordinary acrylic paints in packaging - most often these are metal (less often plastic) tubes of small volume with a thin long nose, which is very convenient for dotting. In addition to packaging, the contours differ in consistency - they are usually thicker, and in the ability to keep their shape - ideally, the contour does not settle, and the resulting dots retain their volume, giving finished work texture pleasant to the touch.

In order not to spoil the work, a new tube of the contour must be tested on a small piece of wood or glass. Try giving them dots of different sizes and see how the paint behaves on the surface. Sometimes a completely fresh contour can be put in the refrigerator for an hour or two before work - this way it becomes thicker and does not spread. And, of course, do not forget to clean the long plastic nose from dried paint. It is most convenient to do this with a sewing needle or a piece of thin metal wire.

The surface of the product, on which the dot painting will be applied, must be prepared for work. First of all - clean with a degreaser or alcohol. Then paint in the desired color according to the idea and cover with 2-3 layers of varnish. Contour paints are the finishing material, i.e. do not require fixing with varnish or other compounds.

Good afternoon dear readers of the blog site. Today I will tell and show the progress of my work in the technique of dot painting with the contours of the scheme, the stencils that I used will help draw lace with symmetrical accuracy and facilitate the painting itself. I gave her the same name as the name of the decoupage card itself, Dreams of Paris.

This technique of imitation of lace will help to apply the acquired skills when decorating any item.

Well friends, let's get started.

Materials and tools

For this work we need:

• Round base made of plywood with a diameter of 30 cm
• Water stain
• A3 decoupage card Dreams of paris
• Acrylic paints
• Glue for decoupage
• Acrylic lacquer.
• Contour acrylic paints

Preparing the Clock Base

We take our workpiece, sand the surface and cover it with stain in several layers until the desired shade and uniform color are obtained, in this work I used chestnut-colored stain.

You can also experiment and get the color you like. Just keep in mind that you need to dilute as much paint as necessary to cover the entire workpiece, because it is very difficult to re-obtain the desired shade when mixing different paints.

Decoupage

For this work, we used a decoupage card.

We cut out the fragment that we liked in the form of a circle, having previously marked the center of our picture. We soak our picture in water at room temperature for a couple of minutes. Next, we paste our picture with glue using the file method, strictly in the center of our workpiece. When centering, we focus on our marks, where we marked the center.

Please note that in this work we do not thin our decoupage card, but glue it on a dark background. When the picture dries, it will be as bright as it was originally.

We cover our work with acrylic varnish in 3 layers and go through sandpaper №800

We finish the picture acrylic paints. White, burnt sienna, blue, green, a little yellow - by mixing these colors and achieving the desired color, we draw a picture. To prevent the painting from going beyond the edges of the picture, you can use a home-made paper “stencil” or use molar tape for this purpose. After completing the painting, we fix our picture with 2 layers of varnish.

painting

Let's start our dot painting. We hold the tube as it is convenient for our hand, experiment and find your comfortable position. It is convenient for me to hold the tube, slightly tilted like a pen. Also, the arm should lie completely on the table (support), including the elbow, so it will not shake. Using a white outline, dot by dot we go along the edge of the picture. We try to keep our points the same size. Before applying, experiment on a draft. We try to put them as close as possible to each other.

Let's move on to our laces. Using a ruler and a watercolor pencil, you can paint for yourself barely noticeable dots at equal distances. We will focus on them. Such a scheme will help draw a picture more symmetrical.

Using a ruler and a contour, at an equal distance relative to each other, we mark larger points and connect them as in the photo below.

We draw the second row identically.

And may the hours that you have created bring you even more minutes of happiness and joy. Thanks for stopping by, see you next time! Bye Bye.

Many times I have been asked to tell you how I make "smooth" lace stripes. I will show on the example of "tulle" lace, which I love and often use in various ways. Everything is simple. Truth!

Introduction: I make all the lace with "Tair" - white, light silver. All markings and "basting" - light silver, because this contour gives the smallest point and is easily covered by subsequent painting.

1. I outline the width of the lace strip, and make a markup of 1 cm (in this case).

2. I connect the points with arcs. Two down.

3. Now two up.

4. I continue along the entire length. For me, this will be the bottom of the lace strip. I outline the size of the future "leaf". Now this is easy to do, focusing on the existing drawing.

5. According to the markup, I make a "basting" of leaves and circles, they will all be "holes" on the tulle, i.e. not painted over.

I repeat once again that the entire basting is in light silver.

6. I begin to fill in the "tulle canvas". With light silver, practically without pressing the tube, I put micro-dots in a chaotic order, close to each other.

Important- do not repeat the contours of the picture with micro-dots, i.e. do not go along the marked lines so that the "tulle" pattern does not duplicate the contours of the leaves and holes.

7. I fill everything tightly with "tulle". Looks like this

8. I begin to outline all the marked leaves and circles with a white outline, the dots are not large, but very dense, so that there is an impression of tightly swept "holes"

9. Now the most pleasant thing is the decor of our circle, that's all that comes to mind.

One piece of advice: when you start making some element, keep repeating it along the entire length of the strip.The hand, as it were, gets used to the rhythm and pattern, and it turns out more evenly and more confidently.

This time I have drawn it like this, I show it in stages, already without comments.

As you understand, there are a lot of options for decorating the lace edge, it all depends on the size of the object and how you distribute the accents (the brightest and densest lace in painting).

On this box, I made this option.

And this is what it looks like in its entirety. To the question of accents - since the most complex and voluminous painting is on the lid, I made a not too saturated lace strip on the sidewalls.

I wish you all success, inspiration and creative mood! I hope this MK will help you in some way.

Always with you, Julia Levashova