How to make soap from lard. Fatty acid composition of pork fat
Good afternoon friends!
Today we have a soap experiment.
Firstly, this was the first time I used lactic and citric acids in a soap recipe.
Secondly, I made today's soap using animal fat, namely - pork lard(aka lard). May animal activists forgive me.
And now about everything in order and in detail.
Pork lard (lard)- this is melted interior fat. I came across it at the market when I was choosing meat to take home. Of course I bought it, it’s always interesting to try something new.
Judging by the fatty acid composition of pork fat, lard-based mono-soap will not have a very good cleansing performance, but the soap will be solid, with stable foam and good conditioning properties.
Fatty acid composition of pork fat:
Palmitic acid 28%Oleic acid 46%
Stearic acid 13%
Linoleic acid 6%
Myristic acid 1%
Soap recipe with pork fat (lard):
Pork fat 35%Castor oil 5%
Coconut oil 20%
Palm oil 25%
Almond oil 15%
I took 7% superfat
Water to oil 33%
Citric acid 2%
Lactic acid 3%
Fragrance lilac 10 ml
Dry pigments, glycerin for dispersing them
We calculate the alkali (NaOH) using the calculator, and also take additional alkali to neutralize acids.
0.6 g of additional alkali per 1 g of citric acid and 0.36 g of alkali per 1 g of lactic acid
I made the soap late at night, after my entire large family had gone to bed, so I worked quickly and didn’t have much time for photography.
I hope a simple description of my actions will be enough for understanding.
Let's get started.
1. First of all, I measured out the required amount of oils (liquid and solid) and put the butters in a water bath to melt;
2. While the oils are melting, I prepared solutions of acids and alkalis.
I decided not to risk it and prepared separate solutions of alkali and acids from the calculated amount of water for the soap recipe. I took some water, diluted citric acid in it, and added lactic acid to it. Separately, I prepared an alkaline solution in the remaining water.
3. When the alkaline solution cooled down a little (to about 50 degrees), I poured the acid solution into it.
4. Afterwards I mixed all the oils. Melted solids and liquids. I left them to cool.
5. While the oils and lye solution were cooling, I diluted the dry pigments in glycerin.
I wrote about how to do this in this article.
6. When the alkaline solution and oils were approximately the same temperature (I got: alkaline solution 35 degrees, oils 40 degrees), I mixed the oils and lye.
I worked with a blender as usual. Squeeze a little, then stir, alternating these actions I bring the soap mass to a light trace.
I would like to note that despite the significant content of solid oils in the recipe, the mass turned out to be quite liquid. So much so that I was even able to squirm a little.
7. I divided the soap mass into 4 parts. I painted half of it White color. I divided the second half of the mass into three more parts and painted them green, pink and lilac.
9. I poured the colors into the mold one by one from a height so that the layer would penetrate those already poured into the mold:
- white more;
- pink;
- green;
- lilac;
Repeat several times.
We carefully pour white (without punching) on top, decorate with droplets of different colors, and draw with a stick (only on top, without penetrating into the depths of the form).
Tap the mold on the table to remove air bubbles.
10. Finally, I put the soap in the oven for an hour at 50 degrees to go through the gel stage. While the soap was gelling, I washed all the dishes and went to bed satisfied with myself)))
This is the batch I got:
I hope you can easily repeat my steps and make your own soap using pork fat using this recipe. If you have any questions, I’m always ready to answer them in my group
To make soap, they used beef, lamb, pork, horse fat, bone, whale and fish oil, fat waste from various industries. Vegetable oils were also added - flaxseed, cottonseed, olive, almond, sesame, coconut and palm.
To make soap we need: caustic soda - 2 kg; lard (unsalted) - 12.8 kg.
To prepare solid soap, take caustic soda and dissolve it in 8 liters of water, bringing the solution to 25 0 C. After this, pour it into melted lard, and then cooled to a temperature of 50 0 C. Mix the resulting mass thoroughly until it becomes completely homogeneous. Next, pour the liquid mixture into separate boxes, wrapped in felt, and place in a warm and dry place for 4-5 days. The soap is ready.
To make the soap more foamy, add 4 to the specified amount of water.
00g purified potash
To produce potash you need to take wood ash or ash obtained from burning weeds, and sift it through a sieve, then scatter it, moisten and mix until a uniformly moistened mass of ash is obtained. After this, the ash is collected in a heap. A recess is made on top to add lime, which is quenched by the presence of moisture. Lime should be taken in half the weight of the ash taken. When the lime disintegrates into a fine powder, cover it with ash, then pour it over with water and leave for 24 hours, after which we drain the lye. This is the first lye, the most concentrated. We place it in a special vessel, and then we dilute the ash with water, drain it and get a weaker lye. When this lye is ready, pour the stronger one into the boiler and heat it to a boil. Next, all that remains is to add fat.
For that to get liquid soap, the same amount of caustic potassium should be dissolved in 2 kg of water, bringing the solution to 25 0 degrees. After which it is mixed with lard and the same procedure is performed as in the first case.
In small industries it is sometimes used to make soap. potassium lye, which can be obtained by treating liquor obtained by leaching wood ash with water and caustic lime. Below is method of making soap using potassium lye.
Lard (lamb or beef) is placed in a boiling pot, potassium lye is added (at 8° according to Baume) and the fire is lit or steam is released. When the lye and lard are heated, a milk-like liquid (emulsion) is formed when stirred; with further heating, a transparent soap solution mixed with fatty spots appears, and soon the process of saponification begins. The onset of this moment is determined by the yellowish-brown color of the mass, which boils and swells from time to time. The solution taken on a paddle for stirring gives a gelatinous gray-white mass that does not release lye. In this state the mass contains a large number of unsaponified fat and is not yet soap. If you start to evaporate it, it will turn into a gray thick mass, soluble only after adding lye. Therefore, more lye is added to the mass calmly boiling in the boiler, and in total they take approximately 2/3 of the total amount of lye at 8° Baume and 1/3 of its amount at 20° Baume. The addition of lye is continued until a thick, homogeneous, light mass appears in the cauldron, flowing from the paddle in the form of long and transparent sticky drops or stretching threads, which means that the soap has boiled (as soap makers say) into glue.
By the type of glue you can judge did you achieve complete saponification? and whether the correct amount of alkali was taken in relation to the fat. If you apply a little soap glue to the glass, then the sample should remain transparent for some time and only becomes cloudy when frozen If the sample quickly becomes cloudy or a gray edge immediately appears, then there is still unsaponified fat in the soap glue or too much lye has been added, which has caused the release of solid soap. These defects can easily be corrected by adding lye or lard.
If the glue is transparent, but a test taken on the tongue gives at least a slight burning sensation, then the glue is continued to be cooked until, due to the evaporation of water, it flows in the form of a thread when the paddle is removed from the mass. Then they begin to salt out the soap from its solution using table salt, and at the same time, when potassium liquor is used for saponification, the transformation of potassium soap into sodium soap occurs. Salt is added to the glue gradually, in small portions and at low boiling of the adhesive solution. Already the first portion of salt causes the glue to turn into liquid; with the addition of subsequent portions, the soap begins to coagulate, which rises in the form of a thick mass to the surface. The liquid separated from the soap, the so-called settled lye, contains, in addition to added table salt, potassium chloride obtained by converting potassium soap into sodium soap, as well as glycerin released during saponification.
Salting out must be done very carefully, since if there is insufficient addition of salt, part of the soap remains in the settled lye, and if too much salt is added, the soap is released too quickly, resulting in the formation of small lumps that are difficult to connect with each other and absorb the lye. Properly salted soap should boil in the plates and, when raised hot with a paddle, should linger on it in the form of soft flakes. The lye should flow easily and be transparent; when rubbed between your fingers, it should not feel like an ointment. The settled lye should taste salty-sweet and not give even a slight burning sensation.
After salting is completed and the fire is removed or the steam stops, the well-separated liquor is allowed to flow out through the drain valve in the boiler, or the entire contents of the boiler are poured into a cooling vessel, where the mass is allowed to stand quietly until the liquor is completely separated. In the meantime, a very weak lye is poured into an empty cauldron and the soap carefully separated from the settled lye is again placed, which now dissolves in the lye with low heating and turns into transparent glue. Once again, carefully salt out big amount salt the soap glue thus obtained. Then proceed to the next operation, by which excess water is removed from the soap, the last particles of fat are saponified and the soap turns into a solid mass without foam. Soap in this state forms a homogeneous compact mass; This ends the soap making process. After removing from the heat or stopping the steam, the soap is allowed to stand for several hours to release the settling lye and the soap is poured into molds.
To cause the occurring under these conditions marbling, you can mix in a little of the exhausted bolus (Sienese earth), ultramarine, etc. If you want to get smooth soap, then it is polished with hot water, as a result of which the soap becomes more liquid and the dirt that was in it turns into settled lye. The amount of soap produced increases slightly when sanding.
From 100 g of lard, 150 g of unpolished core soap is obtained, while after grinding the same soap weighs 160 g.
Soap obtained by using potassium lye is more gentle and softer than pure soda soaps, since potassium soap is partially not amenable to salting out with table salt and therefore turns into kernel soap, but it is much more expensive, since potassium lye is more expensive than sodium lye of the same percentage; In addition, the increase in price is also influenced by the fact that for saponification of fats it is necessary to take a larger amount of potassium lye than sodium lye. To saponify 100 kg of lard, you need to spend approximately 19.5 kg of caustic potassium or 14 kg of caustic soda. Currently (1923), the use of potassium lye is very limited, and it is used mainly in the manufacture of shaving soaps
Production of ordinary soap
1. Making soap using an artisanal method. Take wood ash or ash obtained from burning weeds and sift it through a sieve, then scatter it, moisten and mix until a uniformly moistened mass of ash emerges. After this, it is collected in a pile, in which a depression is formed on top. The latter is filled with lime, which is quenched by the presence of moisture. Lime should be taken in half the weight of the ash taken. When the lime disintegrates into a fine powder, it is covered with ash. Then pour water over it and leave for 24 hours, after which the lye is drained. This is the first lye, the most concentrated. It is placed in a special vessel, and then water is poured over the ash again, it is drained and a weaker lye is obtained. When this lye is ready, the stronger one is poured into the boiler and heated to a boil.
Next, add the appropriate amount of various fatty waste to the lye and boil, adding weaker lye, until the sample taken on a glass plate hardens into a transparent sticky mass. This method produces liquid potash soap, usually called soap glue. To turn the soft mass into hard, dense soap, add boiled salt to the soap glue. In this case, the so-called soap core is released, which is a solid soda soap.
After adding boiled salt, the resulting core soap is scooped out, as well as the lye, after which the soap is placed again in the cauldron, boiled again with thicker lye, salted again, scooped out and placed in boxes lined with linen; when the excess lye adhering to the soap accumulates in drops on the bottom of the box, turn it over, take out the soap, cut it into pieces and air dry.
To make soap, it is better, of course, not to take ash and lime, but directly caustic soda.
2. Preparation plain soap- solid and liquid. a) To prepare solid soap, take 2 kg of caustic soda, dissolve it in 8 kg of water, bring the solution to 25 ° C and pour it into melted and cooled to 50 ° C lard (the lard must be unsalted and take 12 kg 800 g of it for the indicated amount of water and soda). The resulting liquid mixture is thoroughly stirred until the entire mass becomes completely homogeneous, after which it is poured into wooden boxes, well wrapped in felt, and placed in a warm, dry place. After 4-5 days, the mass hardens and the soap is ready. If you want to have a more foamy soap, then add another 500 g of purified potash to the specified amount of water or take 2 kg less lard and add the same amount of coconut oil instead.
B) For cooking liquid soap dissolve the same amount of unrefined caustic potassium in 2 kg of water, bring the solution to 25 ° C and thoroughly mix with 8 kg of unsalted lard, previously melted and cooled to 50 ° C. Then proceed as indicated above.
Soap making lesson with ash soap
I've been wanting to make natural soap from scratch for a long time. But, unfortunately, lye is not sold in our soap making store. So I thought, before, they used to make soap using lye obtained by leaching ash.
Not only our great-great-grandmothers washed and washed with lye. She told me that during the war, and even after, it was simply impossible to buy soap, let alone toilet soap, or even household soap. And they heated it with wood. Unfortunately, I didn't ask her how to make lye correctly. The Internet describes ways to obtain lye for making soap, but not all of them are suitable for a city apartment. And I love to experiment. I will describe how I made the lye.
Method 1 is cold. I made the lye in a glass jar exactly as described on the Internet. I poured 2/3 of a can of ash and poured in 1/3 of the water. During the first day I interfered several times. Then I didn’t touch it for two days. Carefully poured into plastic bottles, filtering at the same time. For the filter I used cotton wool, which I put in a funnel. The solution turns out clean and light.
Method 2 is hot. I took the ash in the same proportions as with the cold method. Boiled on low heat for 3 hours. The solution turns out to be light, slightly brown in color. When boiling, some of the water evaporates, so draining the finished lye is not easy. They recommend using a rubber bulb, but the dregs from the ash still end up in the solution. I drained it with a ladle. Of course I filtered it right away.
But such lye is not suitable for making soap. The concentration is too low. In addition, when boiling, some of the water evaporates, it is difficult to drain and not much solution is obtained.
So I did it differently. I poured 4 handfuls of ash into a saucepan (I have a 5-liter one) and poured in 2.5 liters of water. There is still about 5 centimeters left from the edge of the pan; it does not splash out when boiling. Boiled over low heat, stirring several times. The finished solution is about one and a half liters. Having made two portions of lye in this way, the third was filled with previously prepared lye and boiled again for 3 hours. I boil it in the evening, the solution will settle well overnight and can be drained. The lye concentration is stronger. I could have repeated it again with a new portion of ash, but I ran out of it.
I talked about another way to make lye Mother my friend. It consists of the following: the same amount of water is passed through a new portion of ash each time until a strong lye is obtained. It becomes thick. To wash your hair, it is enough to pass water through the ash once and there is no need to dilute it.
What conclusions did I draw? I'll break it down point by point.
Soap requires strong lye. At home, you can get it by boiling ash or passing a new portion of ash through it several times.
The concentration of the lye depends on the combustion of which plant the ash is obtained. The highest CO2 content is in the ash of sunflower stems: 30-35% and in buckwheat straw: 25-35%. Birch ash contains 10-12%.
Cold-processed lye is quite suitable for washing dishes and laundry.
Regarding security issues, any method can be used. There is no strong odor when boiling.
When doing laundry and washing dishes, it is better to use gloves - it dries out the skin a little. Maybe I just didn't dilute it enough.
The prepared lye must be stored in a glass jar. I left it in a plastic bottle, and after three days it started leaking. Conclusion: plastic is corroded by lye.
But for those who don’t have ash, and there’s a long wait until summer, I’ll tell you about another way to make lye. Barbecue coals are now sold in stores. In principle, this is also ash, but not completely burned. I had a few of these coals left over from the summer and I decided to find out what would happen. Prepared using cold and hot methods. The alkaline solution turns out to be very weak. But it can be used for washing dishes.
I don’t recommend using the hot method: the solution turns out gray and dirty. You can filter, but is it worth the time?
Read more:http://lyubovm.ru/kak-sdelat-shhelok/#ixzz2vMxN17Wk
There are many master classes on how to make natural soap with lye, but I couldn’t find how to make natural soap with lye. If you also had a question about how to make soap at home using ash lye, perhaps you will find something useful for yourself.
Since I couldn’t find a clear step-by-step plan for making soap, I experimented myself. I took the ratio 1:2 as a basis, i.e. 1 part fat and 2 parts lye. I made my first soap using lye, which I prepared by boiling once. I made the second soap using stronger lye.
I took 300 grams of pork fat and 600 ml of lye. The fat was ready-made and melted. After about an hour, the saponification process begins.
First, a liquid is formed that looks like milk. With further boiling, the solution becomes lighter. The fat, which initially floats above the lye, gradually turns into an emulsion and the mass begins to thicken.
When cooking, be sure to stir the soap periodically. At this time you need to start adding a new portion of lye. I added 100 grams. The main thing is to make sure that all the liquid does not boil away, otherwise the soap may burn. Each new portion of lye continues the saponification that has begun and the mass gradually turns into a transparent mass.
With further boiling, this mass begins to thicken. The consistency is similar to liquid semolina porridge or thick jelly.
This is soapy. You can also check by taking a little mass on a spatula. Soap glue flows in a thin stream, and the emulsion flows in drops.
After receiving the soap glue, I started salting with table salt. Salting must be done very carefully, adding salt in small portions. The salt must be scattered over the entire surface and mixed without touching the bottom of the pan. Add a new portion of salt after the previous one reacts.
As soon as the soap looks like a curdled mass and floats up, stop salting.
During salting, the soap cannot be removed from the heat; you can simply reduce the heat.
I can’t tell you the exact amount of salt. It took me about a tablespoon. It probably depends on the composition of the source materials and the strength of the liquor. It took me a little more to salt the olive oil. The main thing is that it is better to use small portions, mix well and do not rush with a new portion of salt until the previous one has completely entered. When adding the first portion of salt, the soap glue first becomes liquid, but with the addition of new portions the soap peels off.
After salting, leave the pan with soap for several hours so that the brine solution peels off. I left it overnight.
Then the soap must be carefully separated from the brine and filled with a new portion of lye. This time I took it in a 1:1 ratio. You can add 50 grams more lye for every 100 grams of soap. I read that 100 grams of fat makes 150 grams of soap. This is true. But you can weigh it.
the beginning of saponification during the second boiling
The second cooking takes less time, about 2.5 hours. It all depends on how well the saponification went the first time.
Then we repeat the procedure: salting, settling and the sound soap is ready. This time, salting should be carried out until the soap floats. There should not be a curdled mass, just a thick mass. I left it to settle for one and a half to two hours. Then the soap must be separated from the brine. To better separate the resulting core soap, I placed it in a colander previously lined with a napkin.
Leave for one and a half to two hours. Then you can put it into molds. I left it in the molds for a day. Then remove and leave to dry.
When cooking soap, foam forms on the fat. If you want to get higher quality sound soap, it is better to remove it. To get better results, you can also boil and salt the soap several times.
I can’t say whether the soap should be left to mature or used immediately. I couldn't find any exact information. But I haven't used it yet. It is possible to make better quality toilet soap from the resulting sound soap. It is from this soap that high-quality toilet soaps are made.
If my lesson on soap making helps answer your question on how to make soap at home, I will be very happy.
And here's what I got:
Soap made from 100% pork fat
Olive oil soap. Very gentle, easy to lather.
This is my first creation. Here I collected, like an old woman on a bun: from the refrigerator. Creamy fat and margarine. Then I melted it when it was ready and added 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 tablespoon of camelina oil and flavored it with lavender. I gave a piece to my friends for “tasting”.
In Rus' they cooked soap since ancient times. They brewed both in workshops and at home. Beef, lamb, and lard were used to make soap. An old saying has survived to this day: “There was lard, but there was soap.” For softness, vegetable oils, such as linseed, were added.
Entire villages were engaged in the “potash trade,” which is what soap production was called in those days. The Valdai and Kostroma soap-making masters were especially famous both in Rus' and abroad.
We present several methods of soap making:
1. Pour a hot, strong solution of washing soda into a bottle and add vegetable oil drop by drop until it stops dissolving. Pour a little table salt into the resulting solution (the process is called salting out). Solid soap will float to the surface and is easy to collect.
2 . Production of high quality sound soap. While heating in a water bath, melt 70 g of beef fat and 30 g of lard. Then, stirring vigorously, add a heated solution of sodium hydroxide (25 g of dry hydroxide per 30 g of water). Carefully! Lye may splash!
Heat the resulting mixture, stirring, in a water bath for 30 minutes. As it boils, add hot water. Then add 100 ml. 20% solution of table salt and heat again until the soap is completely separated. If necessary, wrap the collected soap in a rag and squeeze it out (it is better to do this with gloves so as not to get burned by a strong alkali solution).
Then rinse the soap in a small amount of cold water and add a little fragrant substance dissolved in alcohol (this can be cumin, anise, fennel oil or any other). You only need a little bit of it, the smell is very strong. After this, wrap the soap in a strong rag and knead thoroughly. And finally, slightly heat the resulting mass and press it to give it the appearance of an ordinary bar of soap.
3. Preparation of simple solid and liquid soap:
To prepare solid soap, take 2 kg of caustic soda, dissolve it in 8 liters of water, bring the solution to 25°C and pour it into melted and cooled to 50°C lard (the lard must be unsalted and take 12 kg 800 g of it for the specified amount of water and soda).
The resulting liquid mixture is thoroughly stirred until the entire mass becomes completely homogeneous, after which it is poured into wooden boxes, well wrapped in felt, and placed in a warm, dry place. After 4-5 days, the mass hardens and the soap is ready.
If you want to have a more foamy soap, then add another 400 g of purified potash to the specified amount of water or take 2 kg less lard and add the same amount of coconut oil.
To prepare liquid soap, dissolve the same amount of unrefined caustic potassium in 2 kg of water, bring the solution to 25°C and mix thoroughly with 8 kg of unsalted lard, previously melted and cooled to 50°C. in the future proceed as indicated above.
4. Hot method.
As a base for toilet soaps, you can take lard soap prepared with soda lye, or prepare it separately using pork fat combined with coconut oil. Coconut oil should be the most highest quality, and the pork fat is exceptionally fresh and well-refined.
Fat is purified as follows: fresh fat is washed several times in cold water, cut into pieces and placed in a bag, which is suspended in a cauldron of water and boiled. When the water boils and the lard dissolves, it is lightly squeezed out, with most of the fiber remaining in the bag along with the garbage, and the bag is removed.
For every kilogram of a mixture of lard and water, add 4-5 g of table salt and 1-2 g of powdered alum, with the liquid boiling strongly and constantly stirring. After some time, the boiling is stopped and the fat is allowed to float to the surface. The resulting scale is carefully removed, filtered through a cloth into a clean vat and allowed to harden.
In this way, cooked fat can be stored unchanged in a cool place for a long time.
To obtain a good toilet soap, take 5-20 g of coconut oil for every 10 g of fat. The latter is added not only to reduce the cost, but also to “fill” it with more water.
The soap making itself is done in the usual way, you just need to make sure that the resulting soap is neutral, i.e. so that there is no excess of alkalis in it. For this purpose, it is salted several times and then boiled again.
After the last salting, boiling is continued until the sample taken with a glass rod on the plate turns out to be completely satisfactory, i.e. when squeezing the mass between your fingers, you should get hard plates that should not break.
In order to have completely pure soap, it is stirred with a pole, the foam is removed and poured into molds until it is transparent. The soap mass remaining at the bottom of the boiler will be less transparent and clean, and therefore it must be allowed to harden separately.
5. Cold method.
The preparation of toilet soaps using the cold method by stirring has many advantages, which mainly boil down to the fact that here coloring and perfumery are carried out simultaneously, constituting, as it were, one operation, after which all that remains is to cut and mold the hardened soap mass.
To prepare soap using the cold method, take coconut oil, previously cleared of random dirt, and saponify it with strong soda lye at low temperature and constant stirring. In order for the resulting soap to be neutral, it is necessary to make several preliminary tests and accurately determine the quantitative ratio of fat and alkali.
When the saponification process reaches the point where the contents of the cauldron turn into a homogeneous and difficult to stir mass, then coloring and perfume substances are added to it, which after prolonged stirring are evenly distributed throughout the entire mass.
6. Melting.
The preparation of toilet soaps by melting is carried out as follows: ordinary sound soap is cut into pieces and thrown into a cauldron inserted into another cauldron with boiling water (water bath). So much water must be added to the soap so that the sample taken has a good consistency, after which the soap is poured into molds and mixed with coloring and perfume substances.
The amount of added water poured for remelting depends on the property of the soap: for hard, strong soap, you need to take more water than when using other varieties that already contain a lot of water. Generally, enough water is poured so that when it cools, you get a solid soap that foams strongly in the water.
If the soap taken for re-melting is heavily contaminated, then it must be melted with a large amount of water (50-60%), and then salted off and boiled down.
7. Planing.
The preparation of toilet soap by planing is carried out as follows: the core soap is turned into shavings using a special machine, collected in a wooden trough, mixed with coloring and odorous substances and then turned into a homogeneous mass on a kneading machine. The machine consists of a horizontal cylindrical drum, on the circumference of which there are 4-8 knives. Above the drum, which is driven into rotation, there is an inclined plane on which layers of soap are placed for planing. The soap with its own weight presses on the drum, the knives of which continuously cut shavings from the soap layer. The knives are installed at a significant slope and therefore can cut chips as thick as writing paper.
Here are some recipes for toilet soaps prepared in different ways.
- Almond soap. To prepare it, take 4 kg of white sound soap, finely grind it and add a little milk. The mass is poured into the cauldron, placed on moderate heat and stirred until it thickens and begins to stretch. After cooling, add bitter almond oil and pour the soap into a flat wooden box with a linen at the bottom. The soap is allowed to cool and harden and then cut into pieces of the required shape. In factories, almond soap is prepared from good strong lye with twice the weight of lard, fat, coconut or palm oil, which must be boiled until the sample taken out, placed on a cold smooth plate, quickly hardens.
- Pink soap. To prepare this soap, take 64 parts of coconut oil, 40 parts of tallow soap, 30 parts of water and heat this mixture for 2-3 hours, knead and add a little eosin for tint. Then remove from heat and add artificial rose oil. Soap is poured into molds.
- Violet soap. To prepare this soap, which gives extraordinary softness to the skin, take 100 parts of white kernel soap, 10 parts of orris root, 10 parts of dewy incense.
The soap is mixed with water, colored purple and violet essence is added. Then add as much starch as necessary to give the soap hardness, after which the soap is placed in molds.
- Lemon soap. Mix 1 part of white fatty soap, 1 part of starch under gentle heating, color it yellow and add lemon essence. From the resulting mass, soap is formed into special lemon-shaped molds and tinted yellow-lemon on top, dipping it into paint, like Easter eggs.
- English round soap. To prepare this soap, you need to cut 200 parts of good white soap into small pieces and then grind it in a heated porcelain mortar, adding 1 part of camphor to the mass. 100 parts of starch are added to the resulting batter, colored in different delicate tones and perfumed. Flat-round pieces are formed from this mass.
- English shaving soap. This soap is prepared as follows: 100 parts of white soap are finely shaved and dissolved in water to the consistency of liquid jelly. Then add 10 parts of talc and 10 parts of powdered alum, color it creamy and perfume it with musk and orange oil. This soap is cast in a cylindrical shape.
Home soap maker
Let's start from simple to complex:
- cooking and subsequent molding from ready-made industrial soap, often for children, since
it contains the least amount of additives, unscented soap is usually used to
characteristic smell baby soap did not spoil the bouquet of essential oils;
- making soap from an industrial soap base that has neither odor nor color.
The base comes in two types: transparent (glycerin) or matte (made from coconut or
palm oil). Soap base can be bought in specialized stores;
- the actual making of soap “from scratch”, according to traditional recipes, a process that requires
appropriate preparation and compliance with safety precautions, since during the manufacture
soap must use aggressive alkali. Soap is made from natural raw materials:
vegetable or animal fats with the addition of caustic soda or potash, in the process
When cooked, the fats are “saponified” and converted into soap.
Below are six basic steps that, if followed, will help you do it yourself
make real works of art from soap in your home kitchen.
1. Melting the base: First you need to grind the base: cut into
slices with a knife or grate. 
You can melt in two ways, but in both cases the base melts without direct
contact with the plate.
The first option: do it in the microwave, the second one is to melt it in a water bath. 
The secret of good soap is that the heating should be carried out only until
until the base melts. 
The base should never be allowed to heat up to more than 60-65?C. We recommend
use a thermometer for liquids to be able to control the process. Neither
In no case should you bring the soap to a boil, the soap will dry out and you will have to do all the work
start over! If you melt the base in the microwave, we recommend every 30
sec to check the temperature.
2. Adding essences: Professionals advise starting adding additives with
essences. Because to a greater or lesser extent, they can change the color of the base, most
in an unexpected way.
For example, some varieties of coconut essence intended specifically for
soap, paint the white base pink.
So, when the base is no longer subject to heating, it is necessary to introduce essences, this can
be your favorite perfume, aromatic essential oils, which can be bought at a pharmacy, or
natural products such as vanilla or honey. If essences are used,
purchased in a specialized store and intended specifically for soap, then
approximate amount - 1 teaspoon (5 ml) for every 250 grams of base; If
to be more precise - 2%. If you use food flavorings, you can use a small amount.
increase. 
Keep in mind that scent is a delicate matter and sometimes dangerous! Read the instructions on
packaging of essential oils, and choose those that do not cause you allergies.
3. Touch up: Can be used as a dye for making soap
almost everything that your imagination can suggest. When adding food coloring
It is worth considering that they discolor over time. There are many types of dyes that
offer specialty stores. The dye should be added little by little because
You can always add color if necessary. 
Excess dye is not only wasteful, but also colored foam, and the risk of dyeing,
a towel or bathrobe in the wrong color...
4. Other additives: If you want your homemade soap to have
moisturizing properties, you can add various vegetable oils, for example,
almond butter, wheat germ oil with vitamin E, mango butter, etc. Not worth it
add more than one tablespoon per 500 grams of base. At this stage you can also
add the ingredients you chose as a scrub, this could be ground coffee,
sugar, ground herbs or something else.
Adding too many oils causes soap to become
too soft and wet, and therefore does not harden.
5. Pouring into molds: Any kitchen mold, plastic, will work as molds.
boxes or trays of cheese, butter or pate. You can also use cells from
boxes of chocolates, ice cube trays or children's sand molds. Will do
whatever, just look around!! To make it easier to remove later
dried soap from molds, they should be greased with corn oil or liquid petroleum jelly. 
If you wish, you can experiment by decorating your soap. We suggest using
molds with some kind of relief, then apply the mixture into the recesses with a pipette or brush
without dye, after adding dye to the main mass, continue filling the mold. 
Once the soap is poured into molds, bubbles may form on the surface.
air.
You should prepare a spray bottle with alcohol in advance (you can use vodka). One
Pressing the spray bottle is enough for the bubbles to settle instantly.
6. Removal from molds: If you forgot to grease the mold, then you have to work hard,
to extract the soap from it in one piece. But if the molds were previously greased,
then after several days of drying, it will not be difficult to remove the soap from them.
If you have difficulty removing it, we recommend placing the mold in the oven for 5 minutes.
freezer (but nothing more!), then pour hot water over the mold, then
After these simple procedures, the soap should separate easily. 
The soap is ready to use as soon as it hardens. If you are not going right away
to use it for the best shower of your life, it's worth wrapping it completely
a block of plastic wrap to prevent the soap from drying out 
Ingredients for making soap self made:
- loofah!
- transparent soap base for pouring luffa
- titanium dioxide (and if you have a white base, then it is not needed)
- essential oils or flavorings (to taste)
- dyes (any kind you are not afraid of. I took liquid soaps from my mother (red, blue,
green), tar and sea buckthorn juice, or rather, thickened from it)
- an aluminum can from your favorite drink))) or whatever you find (with film from
I was in a tragedy, I won’t dare to pour anything into glass anymore either)
- juice or kefir box
Loofah- this is a sponge, similar to a washcloth, made from a special type of fibrous mass
pumpkins
I prepared the jar in a special way)) I turned the edges outward, because after cutting
the caps were not even and could scratch the soap when taken out 
so, we pack the loofah into a cylinder and put a bathhouse for the base, I filled it with 3 different “fillings”:
1. transparent with tar
2. transparent with blue, green and fir (EM)
3. transparent with green and sea buckthorn
poured at intervals of 5 minutes (while a new portion was melting) but, as it turned out, in
Soap in an aluminum can cools down slowly and the layers haven’t hardened at all, so
mixed (it turned out to be a gradient, which is nice, but it could also turn out gray-green-brown... with
If you wish, you can make clear layers, but you will have to wait longer) 
Then it’s easier, put the sausage in a juice box (I didn’t cut off the bottom and re-glue it
- I'm afraid now!!). We melt a new base (white or with titanium dioxide). 
I added mint and grapefruit EO and different dyes in different proportions to the outer layer
(red, sea buckthorn, a little green) - well, this is complete improvisation. how
the more unexpected, the more interesting it becomes 
I decided not to fill the convexity from the bottom and leave the soap with such an eye, these layers freeze
much faster, while the new, previous layer with a “crust” is melting - you can pour it right away
and don't wait.
And so we tear the box to shreds (we need to tear it off like a wrapper from a gift, with joyful
exclamations!))))) - and there - 
we cut it of course 
They helped me, since I had slightly injured some of my fingers on the edges of the jar))) here,
actually, that's all. further - I brag about the result) 
The stained glass effect was achieved precisely because the layers in the loofah did not freeze and
mixed up.. that is, by accident;) good luck and inspiration to everyone in making hand soap
work!)
Beautiful DIY soap "Tree - Chamomile"
Ingredients for making beautiful soap with your own hands:
- soap base
- tea tree essential oil
- chamomile infusion oil on olive
- dry chamomile
- food coloring 
The principle of making beautiful soap is as follows:
- We drown soap base in a water bath.
- Add chamomile infusion, um tea tree, dye, dry chamomile. Stir and
pour into the mold. 
- Wait for it to harden, remove from the mold and cut. 
result 
In my opinion, a very simple handmade soap with a mild scrub
effect, well moisturizing and also very beautiful soap. But simplicity is everything
lovely. And tea tree disinfects very well, so to speak, it is antibacterial.
Homemade soap "Orange Shock" = orange+cinnamon+chocolate!!!
Components for making homemade soap at home:
- soap base
- cocoa butter (not refined)
- grated cocoa beans
- cinnamon essential oil
- sweet orange essential oil
- ground cinnamon
- orange food coloring
- titanium dioxide
Making soap at home is as follows:
- We heat the base.
- We make a preparation (orange slices). To do this, fill a small tube with orange base.
dye and orange EO. Wait for it to harden, remove and cut into slices. 
- Take a tube of larger diameter. Place the slices in it with spaces between the slices.
We dilute the base with titanium dioxide and fill the gaps with “white cement” 
- We wait for it to harden, remove the workpiece and place it in a third, even larger in diameter
tube We dilute the base with titanium and orange dye. Fill the crust. Cool down
extract. 
cut in half and into slices. The “slices” are ready. 
Add food coloring, ground cinnamon, cinnamon and orange essence to 2/3 of the base,
Mix thoroughly so that the cinnamon is well dispersed. Pour into the mold. 
- mix the remaining 1/3 with melted cocoa butter and grated cocoa beans. Pour into
the shape is not uniform. We reserve a little of this mixture for final decoration. When
the soap in the mold will set at the top, lower the quarters of the “slice” blanks 
- Add a little titanium dioxide to the remaining cocoa base so that the “chocolate” becomes
lighter. When the soap has set very well, add some “light chocolate” to
final finishing. 
- Take out the frozen soap and cut it into pieces 
result 
This is how it turned out, beautiful soap made at home, now run
wash:)
Homemade soap with petals from a ready-made base
How to make soap from a ready-made base - master class.
I tried making soap with petals. It turned out like this: 
While I was doing it, I filmed the process for you, so our master class is ready. ;) 
First, let's collect what we need for work, namely:
- Soap base, in this case it is baby soap;
- Base oils: almond, cedar and olive oil. You can do one thing, or you can
any others, but it is important that these oils are odorless;
- Glycerin and vitamin E (optional);
- Essential oils - which ones do you like;
- Fillers - again optional. I'm using flower petals here.
- Water to dilute the soap mass
I melted the soap in a water bath, so I will also need dishes for it, and besides
molds are needed for subsequent casting.
Let's prepare the components of our future soap for work.
Select and soak flower petals in cold water. 
Here I used African marigolds. Sounds nice, but really nothing special
exotic: this is the name of a group of tall varieties with large inflorescences. There were flowers
dried since the fall and now, waiting for use.
Looking ahead a little, I’ll say that I didn’t get a successful soap with all the petals.
For example, the petals of a red rose in the soap mass turned green and became more like
tea leaves... I had to throw it away.
I also tried carnation petals, but I probably soaked them for too long - they spread and
I no longer wanted to make soap with them.
But the marigolds did not disappoint: they colored the soap nicely and remained small
interspersed. 
Grind the soap on a grater. It always seemed to me that this was a terribly unpleasant procedure. On
in fact, it’s not long or difficult at all, and the soap gives curls so beautifully! 
We take the base oils, measure out the required amount of each, combine it all in a bowl,
which can then be placed in hot water. Proportion: I took a teaspoon
each of the three oils and a teaspoon of glycerin. I also have vitamin "E" in oil
solution, dropped a little less than a teaspoon. 
Warm up the bases in a water bath. Add soap shavings and a little water. We're waiting until
the mass will melt.
The process went quite quickly for me when I started adding hot water to the chips - a lot
very soon it begins to resemble liquid dough. 
Add essential oils to the softened mass. I'm just starting to study
aromatherapy, so Svetlana Mirgorodskaya’s book “Aromalogy” helps me a lot:
QUANTUM SATIS". There is not only information about the different properties of oils, but also about the doses of each oil
for use in cosmetic preparations in terms of the weight of the base - what you need
newbie But in any case, I try not to be too zealous with essential oil and put
a few drops until you like the smell.
It seemed to me that the aroma of citrus would go well with the yellow color of the petals, so
I added orange and lemon oil. And to make it more interesting - to this
added vanillin. Real, confectionery. The main thing is that now no one confuses
soap with food. ;)
The essential oil I have is probably not the “right” one - not very expensive, but for the first
samples seems quite acceptable to me. After all, this is for external use.
used, and then it will be washed off with water. And in general about the properties of oils and
We'll probably talk about the corresponding prices separately. 
After adding the petals and some of the water in which they were soaked,
the mass turned creamy yellow. Where are our molds? 
For now, I'm using what I have on hand: small plastic food containers and
children's sand molds. The teaspoon in the picture shows the scale.
In general, small shaped molds help make the technology almost waste-free:
if there is not enough for a whole mold, you can then add another mass, and you will get soap
layered.
Another good thing about small molds is that the soap hardens in them very quickly. Literally in
You can spend a couple of hours trying to pull out what happened. And so that the soap comes out smoothly,
You can keep the mold in hot water for a while.
Let's wait until the rest of the soap hardens, take it out of the mold, cut it, and dry it. Ready! 
Handmade soap
For fans of natural cosmetics. I present to you another master class on soap making.
In making soap, we combine business with pleasure, that is, handicrafts and the beauty obtained
in a natural way.
Master class on making soap from Yana Abdullaeva:
Today I will tell you how to make handmade soap. You can add various types of soap to this soap.
essential oils, herbs, flower petals and then, after a shower, enjoy the velvet and
delicate skin.
We will need:
Soap base. We will use baby soap as a basis. It is the cheapest and will be good
basis;
Carrier oils: almond oil, coconut oil, olive oil. You can do one thing, or you can
any others, but the main thing is that the oil is odorless;
Glycerin and vitamin E in oil solution (optional);
Essential oils - which ones do you like and if you have them, if not - you can do without them. Oils are possible
choose depending on their effect, both cosmetic and emotional;
Fillers - again optional, you can proceed from what properties you want
get from this soap. I really like using saffron as a filler, but...
not a cheap yellow powder, which is sold in large quantities at the bazaar among
spices, namely red-yellow saffron flowers. They can also be found at spice sellers,
but they cost more, about 10 thousand soums per kilogram, but we don’t need a kilogram,
It is enough to take 50-100 grams. Saffron soap makes the skin very soft, fresh and
Shining. Saffron is a good bleaching agent, so this soap will also have
brightening properties.
You can also use almost any herbs - chamomile, calendula, string. If
Grind the zest of a lemon or orange and you will get a citrus anti-cellulite soap.
You can add oatmeal ground into flour into soap - a very mild cleanser.
oily and combination skin. To make the soap have scrub properties, you can add
finely ground coffee and cocoa powder and then every evening, when you take a shower, you will
enjoy the coffee and chocolate aroma.
Water to dilute the soap mass, or herbal decoction.
Soap can also be dyed in various colors using natural dyes:
Red:
- Beetroot (muted pink to red)
- Pink clay (red-brown color)
- Hibiscus (red hibiscus flowers - purple, lilac)
Orange:
- Carrots (yellow to orange)
- Pumpkin (deep orange color)
- Sea buckthorn oil
Yellow:
- Calendula flower petals
- Chamomile flowers (beige-yellow)
- Saffron
Green:
- Cucumber (bright green color)
- Henna powder (olive to rich gray-green and brown)
- Sage
- Spinach (light green)
- Dried parsley or dill (light green color)
Blue:
- Chamomile essential oil (blue to blue)
Brown:
- Cinnamon (beige to brown - may be a skin irritant)
- Cocoa powder
- Ground coffee beans, coffee grounds (brown to black)
- Rosehip crushed (from light brown to rich brown)
Beige:
- Milk (from light beige to brown, depending on fat content and sugar content)
I melt the soap in a water bath, so I will also need dishes for it, in addition, I need
molds for subsequent casting. 
Any plastic containers can be used as molds. It is very good to use molds from
children's sandbox sets. Ice cream containers can be adapted.
Interesting idea I saw on the Internet - soap was poured into plastic shampoo bottles, and
Then they cut the bottles, and it turned out just a miracle.
So, let's begin:
Grind two pieces of baby soap on a grater. 
We brew the selected herbs with a glass of boiling water, I take saffron not crushed, it is very beautiful and
then it looks original in the finished soap. If the blades of grass or flowers are too large, e.g.
chamomile flowers, it is better to chop them a little.
Separately pour into a bowl that can be placed in a water bath, base oils,
glycerin - about a teaspoon, and vitamin E (a few drops).
Place the oils in a water bath and heat, add grated soap and a little herbal decoction
along with blades of grass. Stir well, add more broth if necessary until the mixture is
will become like liquid dough. The soap shavings should dissolve thoroughly, and when the mass
becomes homogeneous, add essential oils, the main thing is not to overdo it, one or two is enough
drops
Then pour the finished mass into the molds and wait patiently for the soap to harden. Hardened soap
It is easier to remove it from the mold by dipping it in hot water.
If the mold is large, the soap can be cut into pieces. But it is not advisable to use it right away,
you need to air dry it a little.
With this soap you can get a lot of options, for example, if you cut up store-bought glycerin,
multi-colored soap into pieces, put them in a mold and fill them with soap mass, you will get soap
not only useful, but also very beautiful. 
And if you take a paring knife and cut multi-colored soap into long shavings, shavings
roll into spirals, and then fill these spirals of soap shavings with soap mass - on the cut of the soap
You will get beautiful spiral patterns. But even just soap interspersed with herbs looks very
Beautiful. 
You can even give it as a gift - put various pieces of soap in a small wicker
a basket lined, for example, with straws. Wrap in cling film and an original gift
ready. And if you put in a beautifully designed piece of paper with a description of the composition, then your gift
will be remembered for a long time.
DIY soap
Making soap with your own hands is very pleasant.
You become a little witch, and the kitchen is filled with the living aromas of herbs, flowers and smells.
Making your own soap is very easy and quick. 
To make soap at home you will need:
- grater
- Bowl
- olive oil
- baby soap (although special soap bases for handmade soap are sold, but quite
you can get by with children's)
- any medicinal plant (dry) - nettle, string, and can also be crushed
rose petals, sifted bran, etc.
- natural essential oil (to your taste)
- two pans
- soap molds
The soap making process is simple.
We make a water bath: take two pans - one large, the other smaller, into a large pan
pour water, place a small saucepan in it and heat it.
At this time, put three baby soap on a fine grater, and the finer it is, the faster it will melt. How
Once the water in the pan is hot, pour olive oil into a small pan. For 100 g of soap
goes 2 tbsp. spoons of oil, if you pour more oil the soap will become soft like plasticine, so don’t
overdo it.
Pour soap crumbs into the heated oil, add 150-200 ml hot water and all is well
mix. The mixture should be like pancake batter, if it turns out too thick add more
water, cover the pan with a lid and let it steam. 
Grind the dry herb in a coffee grinder, add to the mixture and mix. 
Take the molds and grease them with natural essential oil. Firstly, then it’s easier to take it out
soap, and secondly the smell is pleasant. Pour the hot mixture into the molds and leave for 4-5 hours,
After which we take it out and dry it for about another week.
The skin after using this soap is very soft and velvety, because the product is natural.
Also, after adding chopped grass or bran, you can add it directly to the mass
natural essential oil diluted with the base. 3-6 ml can be used as a base
almond oil, olive oil, cream. Add aromatic oil - about 3-5 drops per
a pan of mass (well, depending on what kind of pan you have). 
The following essential oils can be added to soap: Patchouli, Ylang-Ylang, Rosemary, Rose oil,
Essential oils of cedar or pine. They have a mild calming effect in addition to heap
healing and cosmetic properties.
Making soap with your own hands is very interesting. Combinations of colors, smells, additives, shapes and decor
simply inexhaustible. 
Molds, colors and ingredients in soap making processes can be completely different. It all depends
from your imagination and creativity.
Happy soap making!!!
Simple homemade soap
Don't be surprised by the offer to make your own soap! Yes, of course, there is a huge selection in stores
all kinds of soap, but it’s very interesting to experiment and choose your favorite
aroma, come up with a shape and make a soap that you can’t buy anywhere. Besides, it's easy
An excellent, original gift for both March 8 and your birthday. And if you start making
soap with the children, the evening will be interesting and fun!
In order to make soap, you will need a special transparent soap base or baby soap.
unscented soap, glycerin, base oil (for example, olive or apricot, preferably without
scent), aromatic oils (optional), fillers such as honey, aqueous propolis solution,
honeycomb, roasted coffee beans, natural ground coffee, dried lavender flowers, calendula
rose hips, etc., enamel dishes, soap molds, which can be used as
plastic baby molds or silicone shaped baking molds.
To make honey soap, cut 100 grams of clear soap base into small cubes and
Heat in a water bath until liquid, stirring constantly, but do not bring to a boil.
Add 1-2 tablespoons of natural honey and 1 teaspoon to the resulting liquid soap mass.
spoon of aqueous solution of propolis. You can add 1 drop of any aromatic oil, for example,
citrus. Then pour the soap into a mold, decorate your soap on top with pieces of wax honeycomb.
Then you need to let the soap cool for several hours. It is better to use plastic or
silicone, and to make the soap easier to remove, you can lower the back of the mold into
warm water. After removing the soap from the mold, place it on a terry towel and
leave to dry for a few more days. 
Then come up with soap beautiful packaging, and your original gift is ready! 
To make floral soap, soak a few sprigs of lavender or calendula flowers (or
any other flower, for example, rose hips, daisies - depending on what kind of soap you want
do). Grate a piece of baby soap weighing 100 g. 3 teaspoons base oil and 1
Mix a teaspoon of glycerin and heat it in a water bath. Then add to the oil
crushed soap and a little hot water, stirring constantly. The soap mass must acquire
consistency of liquid dough. Add 2-3 drops of essential oil to the mixture. You can use
aroma oil of your choice or oil of the flowers that you use for cooking
soap Place the filler - flower petals - into the warm soap mass and carefully
stir. Pour the soap into the mold; you can also decorate it with petals on top. Next put
Let the molds with soap cool for several hours.
Coffee soap can be used as a scrub. For coffee soap you need to prepare a base from
baby soap, olive oil and glycerin in the same way as for floral soap. Into liquid soap
base, add 1 teaspoon of ground coffee and, if desired, a couple of drops of bergamot essential oil,
orange or cinnamon. You can add 1-2 tablespoons of cinnamon milk for flavor. For this
Boil 1-2 teaspoons of cinnamon in a glass of milk. Pour the soap into the mold and decorate the top
coffee beans.
Try it, it's not difficult!
But you should know that all essential oils should be used with caution.
This warning especially applies to pregnant women and children!
Components and Ingredients used in home soap making
Previous articles talked about soap making at home, presented various
soap making techniques, master classes, and now we will tell you about the ingredients that
used in soap production. In soap production, one of the main components is
natural vegetable oils, among which olive oil takes pride of place. 
Olive oil
Olive oil contains a large amount of unsaturated fatty monoacids, mineral
substances and fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, K).
Olive oil is necessary in order not to violate the natural protective barrier, not
dry out the skin and restore its natural beauty and radiance. What else is olive oil good for?
oil? Firstly, it contains various compounds that inhibit growth and reproduction.
germs, secondly, it perfectly protects the skin from inflammation, sunburn,
peeling and keratinization, has antioxidant properties due to its high content
vitamin E.
Almond
Sweet almond oil is very multicomponent in its composition: it contains vitamins (A, B1, B2,
B6, E), provitamins, polyunsaturated fatty acids (vitamin F), protein substances,
minerals (zinc, iron, sodium, magnesium), glucose, lecithin, vegetable stearins,
tannins. Due to such structural and organic diversity, sweet oil
almond regulates the protein balance of skin cells, helping it become more even,
transparent, elastic. Restores water-lipid balance, regenerates, removes
irritation. The oil has a rejuvenating effect, smoothes out fine wrinkles, gives
velvety skin tone and beautiful even color.
Coffee beans
The most valuable ingredient contained in coffee beans is caffeine. It stimulates
biochemical processes in cells, activates lipolysis - the main mechanism of breakdown and
removes fat, has a pronounced anti-cellulite effect. Coffee beans are rich in vitamins
group B, organic acids, oils, proteins, fats and carbohydrates, which contribute
restore skin elasticity, prevent premature aging, have
anti-inflammatory and sunscreen properties, have softening and moisturizing properties
effect on the skin. Unroasted coffee beans exhibit antioxidant properties. Aroma
coffee improves the respiratory function of the lungs and has a stimulating effect on the brain
activity.
Lemon
The main components of lemon are, of course, water and citric acid. But besides that, in
It still contains the most important vitamins for the body. Lemon contains the most vitamin C,
which is indispensable for proper metabolism in the body and is involved in tissue nutrition.
Along with it, lemon contains vitamins A, B1, B2, and D, as well as a vitamin characteristic exclusively
for citrus fruits: citrine (vitamin P). Lemon has antioxidant, anti-cellulite and
whitening properties. Lemon juice tightens pores, tones and heals the skin, makes
oily, shiny skin, matte, drier.
Orange
Oranges contain vitamins B, C, E, K, P, carotene, iron salts, calcium, potassium,
silicon, manganese, magnesium, copper, phosphorus, fluorine, chlorine, zinc, various organic acids, in
including lemon (about 2%).
Oranges are superior to other citrus fruits in calcium content. Like lemon and orange
has anti-cellulite properties.
Glycerol
Glycerin gives the skin softness, shine, makes it smooth, elastic and firm.
Bran
Bran contains a lot of fiber, as well as B vitamins, vitamins A and E. In addition, bran contains
contains microelements necessary for the normal course of metabolic processes in
body: potassium, calcium, fluorine, copper, zinc, magnesium, chromium, selenium, etc. Bran is the basis
many face masks. They soothe, moderate skin irritation and soften it. Used when
normal to dry skin.
Honey
Honey contains fructose and glucose, as well as a number of minerals (potassium, magnesium, calcium, sulfur, chlorine,
sodium, phosphate and iron). In addition, honey is rich in vitamins B1, B2, B6, B3, B5 and C. Concentration
These beneficial substances in honey depend on the quality of nectar and pollen. Except minor
amounts of copper, iodine and zinc, honey also contains some natural hormones. Honey is famous
its antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties. 
That is, using certain ingredients to make soap at home, you can
achieve the result you want (anti-cellulite, whitening, etc.).